Thursday, May 17, 2012

Stronglifts = Climb Better

This winter, I cut back on my usual Crossfit workouts and did Stronglifts instead.  Stronglifts is a basic strength training program where you work five different exercises for five sets of five reps - deadlifts, back squats (go low), bench press, barbell row, and presses.  The weight on each exercise inexorably keeps going up.  

Stronglifts is almost antithetical to Crossfit, as you do the same exercises every workout, whereas Crossfit aims for maximum variability. 

I've only just started my outdoor climbing season in the last few days, but have noticed a huge improvement in my climbing since last season.  Today was my fourth day outside this year (the last two were a month ago) and I was able to onsight several routes that I have not onsighted in the past.  

Right now, I'm pretty convinced that the heavy strength training made a huge difference in my climbing.  Which is interesting, because Eric Horst would say that heavy strength training is counterproductive for improving rock climbing.  However, heaving a big heavy weight about - particularly with the Stronglifts exercises - takes big core strength, and, that's what I noticed today.  A huge improvement in core strength making it much easier to stay on small holds on steep walls.  

Doug pulling the roof move on The Date earlier today

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